Thursday, June 30, 2011

Nous avons fini!

Well, we are finished with the lectures.  The students still have to take their final exams next week, and I have to grade those exams, but it's always nice to be finished with this portion of the semester.
Don't they look excited and ready to take final exams?
I'll go ahead and say this before I start grading their exams: I have really enjoyed this class.  I knew about half of them from prior classes at FCSL, so I was looking forward to working with them in France.  I also enjoyed meeting new students, both from FCSL and France.  It's a quick semester, and I know they are distracted with traveling and sightseeing, but they seemed to be working hard and eager to participate in class. 

This evening we have a "goodbye party" for the students, and our associate dean Rosa DuBose is in town to attend that party and wish the students well.  (She also treated the American and French professors to a fabulous dinner last night - thanks!)  Then the students get a long weekend to prepare for three days of exams - while the American Independence Day is not officially observed here (although we are grateful to the French for helping us in the Revolution!) the students will not have classes or exams on that day.  Then the grading begins ... at a cafe or in the park!

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Lentils, lace, and Madonnas

On Sunday, we went to Le Puy-en-Velay, a small town about an hour from Clermont-Ferrand.  This town is known for its lentils (all the cooking magazines tell their readers to buy Lentils de Puy for the best results!) and for its lacemaking (http://www.ladentelledupuy.com/index_uk.php) which is done by weaving threaded bobbins back and forth across pins on a pillow.  Although it is very complicated, the stores in Le Puy-en-Velay sell lace-making kits for tourists like me who think, "Oh, I'd like to try that."  Since I don't need another quickly-to-be-abandoned craft project (I've been knitting the same scarf for two years), I decided not to purchase the kit, but I'm still intrigued by the process.

Le Puy-en-Velay is also the home to several unusual religious sites and icons.  The town served as an early base for pilgrimages to Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle, when the bishop Godescalc encouraged the pilgrimage in 951.  The main cathedral is home to one of the Black Madonnas, a 17th-century copy of an earlier statue.  The cathedral is connected to a 12th-century cloister with restored painted walls and amazing carved cornices.
East gallery of the cloister.  The crucifixion scene was painted in the first part of the 13th century and was restored in the 1950s.  The room is also known as the "chapel of the dead," and the tombstones of canons from 1339 to the French Revolution rest along the other walls.
The most distinctive feature of the town, though, is the three volcanic "necks" or outcroppings on which chapels and statues were constructed.  We did not go to the Sanctuary of St. Joseph, seen here in the distance:


Instead, we saved our energy for climbing the 268 steps to the Chapel of Saint Michel.  This chapel was built in 962, and has hand-painted frescos inside similar to those in the cloister.
Exterior of Chapel of St. Michel
The chapel is on top of that rock in the foreground.
The view from Chapel St. Michel.  The statue at the left, on that rock, is ...

... Notre-Dame de France.  757 meters high.  Built in 1856-1860 out of cannons melted after Napoleon III's victory at Sebastopol.
After climbing two of the three landmarks, it was time for some air conditioning. Le-Puy-en-Velay also has a nice interactive museum with a gallery for special exhibitions.  We had been told there were several Matisse paintings at the museum, but there were none.  Instead, there was a special collection of Madonna (Virgin Mary, not "Like a Virgin") paintings and sculptures on loan from the Louvre.

In the interactive wing of the museum ... a little American history. The Marquis de Lafayette was born in the Auvergne, and the museum recognizes his assistance with the American Revolution:

Only two weeks left in Clermont-Ferrand - there are still so many things to see!  Then I will catch up on my Paris sightseeing. Bonne journée!

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Hôtel de Ville

Not a hotel, although it wouldn't be a bad place to stay. It's the town hall of Clermont-Ferrand, and the town graciously invited our students and faculty for a tour.  This building is located on land deeded to the city by Catherine de Medici; the actual building wasn't constructed until the early 1800s. 

Exterior of a courtroom in which one of the members of the Vichy government was convicted after World War II

Salle des Mariages - The Marriage Room

The walls and ceiling of Le Salle des Mariages are painted in trompe l'oeil showing the city of Clermont-Ferrand and symbols of marriage ...

... like doves ...

... and a dog.

Courtyard in the middle of the town hall

Meeting room of the city council.  The students enjoyed sitting in the official chairs.

In this room, the vice-mayor of Clermont-Ferrand welcomed us and invited us to share in a "glass of friendship."  Those glasses were filled with champagne.
The city is very welcoming - not just for us, but for the thousands of foreign students who study here every year.  Many of the French students who study here also go abroad for a year or more.  One of the French students in this year's program will be joining us in Jacksonville in the fall (following in the footsteps of Benoit Leblond, who spent a year at Florida Coastal and is now back in Clermont-Ferrand - it's nice to see another familiar face!)

One more week of lectures, then one week of exams ... then more traveling!  Bonne journée!

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Sonya vs. the Volcano

A friend asked whether I was too busy working, too busy having fun, or too shell-shocked from the debate to post anything new on the blog ... all of the above.  There are only two weeks left in the semester, and summer semesters are very compressed (as several of you know from listening to my numerous complaints about teaching regular summer school).  Nevertheless, I am still able to get out and explore.  One recent adventure: climbing the Puy de Dome volcano.

The Puy de Dome is the highest volcano in the Chaine des Puys, a range of volcanoes in the Auvergne.  (Dormant, but not extinct.  There is still some magma in some of the volcanoes.)  You can see the Puy de Dome from Clermont-Ferrand - I've posted a picture in a previous post.  The weather antenna at the top gives it a Space Mountain vibe, which seems a bit out of place, but Blaise Pascal was conducting weather experiments from the top of Puy de Dome in the 17th century, so it's historically consistent.  I have no idea how Pascal reached the top without the relatively modern hiking trail, though.
A view from one of our early breaks on the way up

A paraglider coming toward us.  They take off from the top of Puy de Dome and land on a flat field that sometimes has sheep grazing in it.  (It makes for a soft landing, depending where the sheep are.) 

Another photo break - getting closer to the top!

Sonya and Jamie at the top

Sonya and Marie-Elisabeth at the top.  Marie-Elisabeth is a frequent hiker (she often takes her breakfast to the top of Puy de Dome!) and has been a wonderful guide and a kind host.

A view from the top


A sign from 1913, placed by Michelin with information about the ruins of the Roman Temple of Mercury at the top of the Puy de Dome.  (I can't imagine how the Romans got up there, either.)  This was the first Michelin road sign, part of their plan to promote road travel (which wears out tires and requires you to buy more!).  If only all advertising signs were this small and unobtrusive ...

The view of Clermont-Ferrand from the top of Puy de Dome. 

Ruins of the Temple of Mercury in the foreground
The total hike took about three hours.  We rewarded ourselves with lunch at the restaurant at the base of the volcano, which had amazing food - not what I expected in a nature park.  The next night, Marie-Elisabeth took us to another great restaurant.  I'll throw down the gauntlet: the Auvergne region (and Clermont-Ferrand specifically) has restaurants that are as good as - or better than - many places in Paris. 

Meanwhile, the weather has improved and I've been able to work in my "outdoor" office.  In addition to Jardin le Coq and Place de Jaude, we have spent some time in Place de la Victoire, another open square in Clermont-Ferrand surrounded by shops, cafes, and brasseries.  On our way to "Brasserie Derriere" (seriously - that's the name), I was run over by a skateboarder in the plaza.  I couldn't get too angry at him, though, especially since I was not hurt and he was blind.  Apparently he was skating too fast for his cane to detect that I was in front of him.  He'll probably try paragliding next.

À bientôt!

Thursday, June 16, 2011

le grand débat

The email arrived in April and was forwarded to the professors selected to teach in France:

"We have been invited to participate in a debate about whether the common law model is preferable to the civil law model of France."

My response? "In what language?"  While I had tremendous faith in the powers of Rosetta Stone, I knew that I could not learn French in time for a June debate.  When I was told the debate would be in French and in English, I knew I would be able to participate, especially since my colleague David Pimentel is an expert in post-conflict justice and the accompanying distinctions between the Anglo-American common law and its civil/code counterpart in the rest of the world. Sign me up!  Once I arrive in Clermont-Ferrand, I am further reassured by signs around the building that advertise the debate as "in French and English."


A view from our faculty office, where I prepare for class ... and for debates

Another view from the "official" faculty office.  The Jardin le Coq is through the trees.

Jardin le Coq, my "other office."  The swans were NOT helpful in preparing for the debate.


First glitch: David can't attend the debate because he will be at a conference back in the States. 
Problem solved: David will record a video explaining why our system is the best ("USA! USA! Woohoo!"*) and I will do enough research to counter any major controversies raised during the live debate.  David records his video and I complete my research.  I re-read an email and see that the debate focused on criminal law.  Not my area, but I can do this.  I've read enough to debate Ugo Mattei** himself ... I am ready to explain why the American system is one that predominates*** because the people of the world are clamoring for it.

I arrive at the debate with my laptop containing the necessary software to play David's presentation.  I notice that two of the other four speakers are conversing with each other in English, so I don't think there will be any language barrier.  (Irony alert: in trying to argue that American law is not hegemonic, I am hoping that the English language is hegemonic.)  Nevertheless, I have written (thanks, Google Translate!) and rehearsed an introduction in French, to show that I am making an effort to speak the language.  I have also watched David's video presentation and taken notes about his assertions to further explore them during the debate, if necessary.  All of the settings are correct on the special software on my laptop, and I am able to view and hear it sans probleme.  I just need to connect it to the system in the auditorium, which is exactly like the one where I've been teaching.  I arrive early so I can hook up the laptop.  All audio settings are good, and David's face is "paused" and ready to go when it's the American professors' turn to debate.  I converse (in English!) with a U.S. native who has been teaching U.S. History for the past 20 years in France and who is also participating in the debate (on the American side). Meanwhile, someone else is using the auditorium's audiovisual system for another display.  No problem - I have tested the system!

The U.S. native and a French professor converse in English while we are waiting on the other speakers and audience members.  Yes!  Lots of English speakers! The first speaker is a French student who also speaks English very well, which I learned during a pre-debate conversation. She begins the debate by reading from her paper in ... French.  At first she sounds enthusiastic ... then she begins to sound a bit tense ... then rather angry.  I can only judge her tone and not her actual words because HER ENTIRE PRESENTATION IS IN FRENCH.  The U.S. native professor, sitting next to me, leans in and asks, "Do you understand what she's saying?"  When I frantically shake my head, "No," she tells me that she will take notes in English.  I look on her paper as she is writing.  (Which feels odd - I mean, in a classroom setting, you aren't supposed to be looking at someone else's paper, right?  Isn't that cheating?)

When the student finishes, a French professor begins speaking about the American criminal justice system ... in French.  I can pick up a few words, especially when she uses "l'americain" and looks at me.  The U.S. native professor leans in to tell me that the French professor wants me to correct her if she's wrong about any aspect of our system.  Yeah, right.  The French professor could be saying that Americans try criminal cases by playing "rock, paper, scissors" and I wouldn't know the difference.  I can tell when she is discussing plea bargaining and how the French frown upon it, and I make notes for later.

At last ... one of the French professors who spoke English earlier.  He teaches classes to U.S. students, so I'm pretty confident he will be using English.  He begins his presentation ... in French.  He continues in French.  I am able to pick out certain terms such as "doing business" and "throw the baby out with the bath water."  (Seriously.  Apparently that idiom translates well.)

My turn!  I hit the correct buttons to set up David's presentation while the moderator is introducing me.  I start my rehearsed spiel in French while hitting the "play" button on the video and wait for David's voice to resonate throughout the auditorium.  I see his face on the screen ... I see his mouth moving ... why isn't his voice resonating? I abandoned the rest of my rehearsed French presentation in favor of  mumbling "je ne parle pas francais" while hitting random volume and other audio buttons.  Video David remains mute.

In the interest of time, I abandon all hope of speaking French and explain in English what David would have said in the video, referring to my notes.  (I still don't know what happened ... I can play it fine from my laptop.)  I respond (in English) to the comments made during other presentations, based on the notes taken in English by the other professor.  Fortunately, I am able to make the points (in English) that David and I intended, and members of the audience seem to nod in agreement. 

The U.S. native concludes the presentation by speaking about American Constitutionalism ... in French.  I look over at her prepared notes, which are in English.  I am amazed at and envious of her bilingual ability, and extremely grateful for her kind offer to translate.

Now it's time for questions from the audience ... in French.  The U.S. native professor explains to me what they are asking, and I want to respond to their questions (not really directed to me) but I refrain from doing so in light of the language barrier and the apparent need for translators.

A lovely reception followed the debate, where I conversed with several members of the audience ... in English.  Finally. Several people told me that they loved hearing my American accent.  Many others told me how they had studied or lived in the United States and loved our country and its citizens.  One man told me that he was glad I wasn't from Texas, because he can never understand Texans.  Another told me that he was intrigued by my presentation but needed to learn more English to fully understand it.  I understood him perfectly.


 __________________________
*No.  Not really.  Not even close. His presentation was thoughtful, eloquent, and well-reasoned. 
**Writes an awful lot about American hegemony.  In other words, how we're trying to take over the world.
***Not really.  The Anglo-American common law exists in a minority of countries - mostly those vestiges of the British Empire.  The civil law, which is based on codes rather than judicial opinions, exists in most countries.  Because of U.S. dominance of the economic realm, however, many international business transactions are conducted using American law.

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Bonjour, le soleil?

So as soon as I posted this picture on FB ...
Rose Garden - Jardin le Coq
... and said that I was holding office hours in the Rose Garden to enjoy the beautiful weather, the rain started.  Again.  But enough about the weather, because there are plenty of other things to talk about.

Did you know that the Michelin Man has a name?  We learned that at a field trip to the Michelin headquarters here in Clermont-Ferrand, where we enjoyed a great presentation by their in-house counsel, who happens to be from North Carolina.  Other things she taught us, some of which are related to her extremely cool job:
  • French anti-trust laws prohibit bulk discounts.  So when you go to the local grocery store and see the eight-pack of Coca-Cola bottles ripped apart because another customer only wanted to buy one, that's because there's no advantage to buying the eight-pack.
  • Whistleblower hotlines aren't very popular in Europe because of the horrible experiences of World War II and Soviet-bloc era anonymous "ratting out" of citizens to authorities.
  • It's almost impossible to buy grits in France.  Jalapeno peppers are also hard to find locally.
And because Michelin tires "drink up obstacles from the road," this guy in the late 19th century was named ...

Bibendum.  From the Latin for "to drink."
Another Comparative Tort Law class tomorrow, before another long weekend for the students (this time, it's the Pentecost holiday).  I'm hopeful that they'll have fun and stay safe - safer than the student who dislocated his shoulder while riding a zip wire on one of the volcanoes today.  Once again, I am grateful for our French director who knew how to get help for him and communicate with the French hospital staff!  (Also grateful that the student is fine after having his shoulder popped back into place!)

Monday, June 6, 2011

Il pleut de nouveau

Apparently France has been in the middle of a drought ... at least until we arrived.  The French Open was delayed by bad weather, several students were stuck in Paris because of bad weather, and it's rained daily in Clermont-Ferrand for the past several days.  Fortunately, the sun was shining long enough for us to explore the area further.
The Rose Garden at Jardin le Coq, near the law school
View of Clermont-Ferrand from the top of a hill in Chamalieres, a nearby village.  You can see the twin spires of the cathedral (which seems to be closed every time we try to go in).
Degustation des fromages - the cheese sampler.  Un repas excellent.
Doesn't "Palace of Justice" sound so much better than "local courthouse"?  It looks much less ominous without the storm clouds overhead.
We have settled into a morning routine of cafe au lait at a local brasserie, followed by croissants and cafe at a small patisserie, all within a short walk of the apartment.  Our French language skills are becoming slightly better, although one afternoon we managed to order two baguettes instead of only one - not the worst mistake we could make.

This will be the first full week of classes (sans holiday), which will include a field trip to Michelin. Hoping the weather clears!

Thursday, June 2, 2011

L'Ascension

Today is the Ascension Day holiday, an official holiday in France always celebrated on a Thursday.  Offices, schools (including L'Universite d'Auvergne), and many other places are closed today, and the French tend to make it a long weekend.  Our students seem to have done the same thing and are traveling (some to Bordeaux), but Jamie and Kathy and I walked around Clermont-Ferrand, which was surprisingly busy.
Notre-Dame du Port - built around the beginning of the 12th century.  Romanesque architecture.  Home of the "Black Madonna" icon - there is a pilgrimage each year when the statue is transported.
Interior of Notre-Dame du Port

Street view of Clermont-Ferrand in Le Port area surrounding the church.

Cathedral Notre-Dame de l'Assomption.  This is the church whose spires can be seen in most pictures of the city.  It's made of volcanic lava rock, but that's not the reason for its dark color.  Despite L'Ascension being a religious holiday, the cathedral was closed and we could not go in.
Side of Cathedral Notre-Dame de l'Assomption
We have also enjoyed listening to Jamie practicing his French as we walk around town: "L'homme cour" as the random jogger went by; "l'homme mange" walking by a man eating. We did get a bit confused when Jamie tried to tell us in French that a lady was a hat.

We finished our walking tour with Nutella crepes at Place de Jaude ... a heavenly finish to seeing beautiful churches.  We might have to go back for the "sandwich Americain" we saw advertised at one shop - it looked like a sub-length hamburger Philly cheesesteak with French fries stuffed inside.  Or not ...à plus tard!

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Je travaille ...

So the real purpose for my visit - work - has kept me quite busy.  Monday, I prepared for classes.  Fortunately, I was able to do my work here:
Jardin lecoq
This is a beautiful park across from the law school with nice paths and rose trellises.  Later Monday evening, there was a welcome party for the students and professors participating in the summer program.  One of the highlights for the French students was a bag of "typical" American snacks brought by a Florida Coastal students - Skittles, Reeses Cups, and even Twinkies. 

I taught my first class Tuesday morning - it was nice to see the familiar faces of many students, and they seemed to stay awake for a three-hour Comparative Torts class. Two glitches:
  1. French computer keyboards are different than American keyboards.  The M and A and other letters are in different places, and to use numbers you have to hit "shift."  I had difficulty logging in, but that glitch was more easily resolved than the next ...
  2. The weather.  It has been rainy and cold since Monday evening, and the Weather Channel shows continued rain.  I'm grateful that last year's professors, Quince Hopkins and Darren Latham, left an umbrella behind.  (And the printer and the nice wineglasses ...)
Jamie arrived Monday evening, and he and Kathy and I have been exploring (despite les mauvais temps) and eating well.  I'm hoping the weather clears soon - otherwise I'll have to post pictures without sunny skies.  In the meantime, here's a flashback to our last evening in Paris last week:
Sunset on the Seine - Notre Dame on the right
More later - à bientôt!